How to Brush Your Dog's Teeth (Even If They Hate It)

Most dogs don’t love having their teeth brushed. A lot of owners know they should do it and don’t. The result is that periodontal disease affects an estimated 80% of dogs by age three — not because dental care is impossible, but because it’s one of those things that keeps getting put off.

The good news is that you don’t need a compliant dog to start. You need a patient approach and about five minutes a day for a few weeks while your dog adjusts to the whole thing.

Why It Actually Matters

Dental disease in dogs isn’t just bad breath, though that’s usually the first thing people notice. Bacteria in plaque build up under the gum line, causing inflammation that eventually damages the ligaments and bone holding the teeth in place. Advanced periodontal disease means loose or missing teeth, chronic pain that dogs often hide because that’s what dogs do, and in severe cases, bacterial spread that can affect the heart, kidneys, and liver.

Professional dental cleanings under anesthesia are effective but expensive — often $400–900+ depending on your location and what needs to be done — and they’re much more involved when disease is already established. Regular brushing doesn’t eliminate the need for professional cleanings, but it significantly slows the rate of buildup and can stretch the interval between them.

What You Need

Dog toothpaste, not human. This is non-negotiable. Human toothpaste contains fluoride and often xylitol, both of which are toxic to dogs. Dog toothpaste comes in flavors like chicken, beef, and peanut butter — which is actually an advantage when you’re trying to get a dog to accept something being rubbed on their teeth.

A toothbrush. Options include:

• A soft-bristled dog toothbrush (looks like a human toothbrush but smaller and angled differently)
• A finger brush — a rubber cap that goes over your fingertip with silicone bristles
• A child’s soft toothbrush in a pinch

Finger brushes are often easier to start with because they give you more tactile control and are less alarming to dogs that have never had anything in their mouths before. Many people find them easier to maneuver on small dogs. The downside is that if your dog decides to bite down, your finger is there.

For dogs that absolutely will not tolerate brushing even after patient training attempts, dental wipes and water additives provide some benefit — nowhere near as much as brushing, but better than nothing.

Starting from Scratch

Don’t pick up a toothbrush and start scrubbing on day one. That’s how you create a dog that runs when they see you holding anything long and cylindrical.

Week 1 — just the toothpaste. Put a small amount of dog toothpaste on your finger and let your dog lick it. Do this daily. The goal is that toothpaste = good thing.

Week 2 — touching the teeth. With a bit of toothpaste on your finger, gently rub along the outer surfaces of your dog’s front teeth. Keep it brief — ten seconds is fine. Most dogs tolerate this reasonably well because your finger isn’t particularly threatening. End with praise and maybe a treat.

Week 3 — introducing the brush. Let your dog sniff and lick the toothbrush. Put some toothpaste on it and offer it to them. Don’t push it into their mouth yet — just let them get comfortable with the object.

Week 4 and beyond — actual brushing. Lift the lip on one side and brush the outer surfaces of the upper teeth in small circular motions. You don’t need to get the inner surfaces (tongue does most of the self-cleaning work there). Work up to 30 seconds per side over a few sessions.

The back teeth — the premolars and molars — are where most plaque accumulates and where periodontal disease tends to start. Getting there requires you to gently push the cheek back. Many dogs resist this at first. Go slowly, reward heavily, and build up.

The Dog That Actively Refuses

If you’ve tried the gradual approach and your dog is still snapping, pulling away frantically, or making the whole experience miserable for both of you, a few things to check:

Mouth pain. A dog that’s unusually resistant to mouth handling might already have dental pain. If your dog has never had a dental exam, get one before pushing the issue — you could be causing pain without realizing it.

Gum sensitivity. Inflamed gums hurt. If there’s already significant tartar and gingivitis, brushing the gum line is uncomfortable. In this case, a professional cleaning first, followed by brushing to maintain results, makes more sense than trying to brush through active inflammation.

Approach anxiety. Some dogs have generalized handling anxiety that makes dental care hard. The same desensitization principles from the gradual introduction above apply, but you may need to go even more slowly and use higher-value rewards. This is different from a dog that just needs to get used to something new.

For a dog that genuinely won’t cooperate after a patient introduction, talk to your vet. They can look at the mouth, rule out pain, and help you figure out whether professional cleaning plus alternative maintenance (dental chews, water additives, dental diets) is a better plan than persisting with brushing.

How Often

Daily is the goal. Plaque starts mineralizing into tartar within 24–48 hours, so brushing every day actually prevents the hard buildup that brushing can’t remove. Every other day gives you decent coverage. Once a week is better than nothing but probably won’t prevent significant buildup over time.

The realistic answer for most owners is that it happens 3–5 times a week, which is fine. Set yourself up for success: keep the toothbrush and toothpaste somewhere visible and accessible, brush at the same time each day (after their walk, before bed, whenever fits your routine), and keep sessions short enough that they end positively.

Dental Chews: Helpful, Not a Substitute

Dental chews like Greenies or Virbac C.E.T. chews are VOHC-approved (Veterinary Oral Health Council) and do provide mechanical abrasion that reduces plaque. They’re a useful addition to your dental care routine. They’re not a replacement for brushing because they don’t clean the gum line the way a brush does, and they don’t reach all the surfaces.

If your dog tolerates brushing even on a part-time basis, pair it with dental chews on the days you don’t brush. If brushing is completely off the table, daily dental chews plus a water additive and regular professional cleanings is a reasonable fallback plan.

One More Thing

Dogs hide discomfort well. A dog with significant dental disease will often eat normally, play normally, and show no obvious signs of pain until the problem is advanced. The absence of complaints isn’t a sign of a healthy mouth. If you haven’t had a dental exam as part of your annual vet visit, request one specifically — it’s not always done proactively unless you ask.

If you’re building out a full grooming routine, our guide on how often to bathe your dog covers the rest of the basics. Teeth, coat, ears, and nails — routine care for all of these is a lot easier to maintain than to fix once there’s a problem.